Toledo

Toledo is the city of three cultures: Muslim, Christian, and Jewish. With this diverse mixture of influences the city is a treasure trove of architectural influences. For several centuries the city was under the control of the Moorish kingdom and became one of the areas busiest trading centers. In the 11th century Alfonso VI conquered the city making the capital of Castile. Toledo became best known for its steel industry and its production of the finest swords in all of Europe. Artists also flocked to Toledo to serve the rising commercial class citizens who had money to spend. Among the best known of these artists was El Greco whose influence is felt everywhere.  Let me take you to some of the sites in Toledo.

The central feature of Toledo is its Cathedral. Its construction began in 1227 and was not completed until 1493 under the direction of the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand.  It is marked with a double ambulatory and a "Transparente" (an oval opening in the ceiling with elaborate sculptures of angels descending from Heaven) whose light illuminates an altar on the backside of the High Altar. It holds one of the most impressive collections of artwork by El Greco, Caravaggio, and Titian, and is where one can see El Greco's "El Espolio."

A fine example of medieval Jewish architecture is the synagogue turned church Santa María la Blanca. With its colonnades, white walls and simple detail it is reminiscent of the design associated with Islamic mosques. Just down the street is El Tránsito follows a more traditional layout for Jewish synagogues and is the location of Toledo's Sephardic Museum.

The city's Mosque is known today as the Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz. Originally a Visigothic church, the building was converted into a mosque when the city was taken by the Moors. According to legend, when Alfonso VI rode up to the mosque his horse stopped in front of the mosque and knelt on one knee. While excavating the site the workers found the figure of a crucified Christ still illuminated by a lamp that had been burning continuously for over 350 years. Thus its name. Unfortunately the building is in restoration and the visits were very limited. I include two pictures from a previous visit to the site: One of the building and one of the stone that indicates the place where Alfonso's horse knelt.

The Iglesia de San Juan de los Reyes was built as an offering by Isabel of Castile to God for having given the Christians the victory over the Moors in Granada. It is in an elaborate Gothic design. One of the interesting aspects of the cloister is its playful designs representing men hunting, children climbing trees, a monkey playing a flute and another dressed as a monk, reading a book while sitting on a medieval toilet.

The ceiling of the upper cloister displays the crests of Castile and León as well as the insignia of Aragon. Throughout are the initials of "I" and "F" for Isabel and Ferdinand. Cross arches read "Tanto Monta" reflecting the two monarchs agreement to sit as equals over their respective kingdoms.

San Juan de los Reyes is also well-known for its facade. According to legend Isabel took the hand and leg chains that held the Christian captives and had them hung on the outside of the Church. To this day they hang there as evidence of the Christian's victory over the Moors.

We were fortunate to be in Toledo just days before the Corpus Christi celebration. The whole city prepares for the event by decorating the city, especially the path that the Cathedral's Custodia will take. The streets are strung with garlands, and the buildings covered with banners.

There are also processions in the streets. We were fortunate to see one involving the "gigantones," bands, and demons. There were men dressed as buffoons on stilts.