Andalucia Trip Part 3: Granada and Ubeda

Well, here we are in Granada (wet and cold)! As luck would have it the draught that the south has been having decided to break precisely when we arrived. Though some of the students braved the weather to go down to see the Capilla Real (where Isabel and Fernando are buried), most played it safe and stayed at the hotel until the bus arrived to take us to the Alhambra in the afternoon.  After arriving at the Alhambra we met the group that had gone downtown and headed toward the heart of the complex. And what do you think happened? It started to pour by the bucket full. We ran into the Palace built by Carlos V and waited until it slowed down. Fortunately we were able to get out and see some of the wonders of the hilltop fortress. Here are some of the places we explored.

The Alhambra complex is comprised of four areas: The Alcazaba, , The Palacio de Carlos V, The Palacios Nazaríes, and the Generalife. The Alcazaba is a fortress that provided an amazing 

view of the surrounding countryside and was a perfect place for defending the palace.  The fortification has towers, bunkers, and living quarters. The Palacio de Carlos V is an addition from the 16th century. The palace sits right in the middle of the complex and butts up to the Palacios Nazaríes. It is sobering to contemplate what may have been destroyed in order to construct this monolith of a building. The interesting feature of the palace is that it is circular with a large inner courtyard.  The acoustics are so good that one can stand in the middle of the courtyard, speak in a low voice and still be heard some 40 feet away. The Palacios Nazaríes are the most spectacular of the buildings and those that best characterize the 

Alhambra.  These palaces were the heart of the caliphate of Granada. Each step through the palace moves you through a series of rooms and patios that expose you more and more to the light of day until you reach the central courtyard and the Hall of the Ambassadors. The living quarters and private gardens are quiet places for contemplation. One of the most beautiful of the patios is that of the Lions. Unfortunately we could not fully appreciate its beauty because of 

the work that is being done (I have put a picture of it from one of my previous visits so that you can get a feel for the area). Some will be familiar with the writings of Washington Irving. He lived in the Alhambra and there wrote a collection of stories entitled Tales from the Alhambra. The views from the palaces are fabulous, though very different from when they were occupied by the Moors.  Today where there are trees and bushes around the base of the mountain the Moors would have left the area barren in order to see expose approaching armies, leaving them no 

where to hide. The gardens that occupy the 

upper of the mountain and lead toward the 

Generalife are wonderful oasis.  Finally, there is the Generalife, another palace located on a hill opposite that of the Palacios Nazaríes.  This smaller palace is famous for its gardens and fountains, all dating back to the time they were occupied by the Moors.  

On the way back to Alcalá de Henares we stopped in Ubeda, considered by most to be the crown jewel of Renaissance architecture in Spain.  Again, the rain followed us, but it was much lighter than in Granada.  What was great was being there while everyone else was inside having lunch.  The streets were almost 

completely empty. We wandered down some narrow streets to the main square to see these magnificent buildings. The church in the picture is the Capilla de El Salvador and was originally constructed as a family funerary chapel by Francisco de los Cobos y Molina in the 1540's. It was under this family and their descendants that the magnificent buildings of the city were built. This area continues to abound in wealth, most of it comes from the large olive/olive oil industry that makes up large portion of the economy of the region of Jaen. You will note from the picture the extent of the industry. What you see are miles and miles of olive groves.

Andalucia Trip Part 2: Sevilla

Welcome to the beautiful city of Sevilla. We arrived here late Wednesday night. The next morning we awoke to threatening clouds. The picture to the left is of the Guadalquivir River and the "Torre de Oro" (Golden Tower). Sevilla became the hub of commerce starting in the 16th century when ships would navigate up the river from the ocean to deposit its merchandise.  In this city ships carrying gold from the Americas anchored. Here is where you will find the world's largest Cathedral and where Christopher Columbus is buried (or at least according to the Spaniards!). Our first stop was at the Real Alcazar, a beautifully decorated palace that was home to caliphs and the Catholic Kings, Isabel and Ferdinand. We entered the Alcázar from its extensive gardens. Within the garden space are mazes, fountains, pavilions and pools. The pavilions are decorated in the typical "azulejo" or ceramic tiles found in Sevilla and most of 

southern Spain. There are many facets to the palace that take the visitor from closed interiors decorated with "yesería" to open patios where  and admirals gathered. One of the most interesting areas is the "Sala de la Justicia," a small Moorish building with a beautiful interior fountain and patio. Other rooms of the Alcazar reflect this peaceful environment where both the outer gardens and the inner spaces come together and create a symbiotic relationship where contemplation could take place.  Water is an essential element of these spaces, it being a symbol of purity and a symbol of life. If you can find a quiet moment in a patio 

where there is running water, you become absorbed in the space and become more aware of the smells, the air and your own thoughts.

Sevilla offers the visitor many unexpected experiences. While making our way to the town center some of us met up with a group of pilgrims on their way to pay homage to the "Virgen de Huelva."  Throughout Andalucia this week there were pilgrimages or "romerías" in honor of local Virgins. Devotees dress in typical Andalusian attire, decorate carts pulled by oxen, and take their journey outside the city where they set up large campsites. Some of the romerías last only a couple of days, some upwards of one week. These pilgrimages can cost anywhere from 1500 to 7ooo euros (which 

includes the food, the preparation of the wagons, the rental of the oxen, etc.).

After visiting the Alcazares we went directly to the Cathedral de Sevilla. This immense edifice is so large that it has two ambulatories or interior walkways that go around the inner core of the cathedral where the main altar and chorus are located.  The cathedral is the resting place of Christopher Columbus and his son, Diego.  To give you a feel for the height of the ceiling, the highest point over the nave is 138 feet! It is an impressive edifice. The cathedral also contains valuable pieces of artwork from throughout the centuries. Below are a few interior and exterior shots of the Cathedral.

Other sites around Sevilla include the "Plaza de España" which was built for the 1929 Ibero-American World's Fair. The semi-circular pavilion reflects the Moorish influence with its extensive use of brick and ceramic tiles. The two towers that flank the plaza are reminiscent of 

the Cathedral's Giralda. Around the interior of the plaza are small sitting areas that pay homage to Spain's key cities. Of particular interest is the fact that George Lucas used the plaza to represent Nabo, Senator Amidala's home planet. Other areas of the city are populated with park, paseos (walking paths), and monuments.

Andalucia Trip Part 1: Córdoba and Medina al Zahara

The first stop on our trip to Andalucia was the great city of Córdoba. Located here is the Mezquita (Mosque) built by the Moors. It is approximately 23,000 square meters in size and has more than 800 existing columns, some with double arches. You enter the mosque from a patio filled with rows of orange trees. A thousand years ago with the mosque was held by the Muslims, the wall that today separates the interior from the patio did not exist, thus creating a sense of movement between the natural world and that of the divine.  The columns were constructed to appear like trees, reminiscent of the palm trees that populated the desert oasis of the Middle East. The inner portion of the mosque was a place of peace and escape, an "oasis" where the worshipper could pray and meditate. The columns are an interesting feature. All of them are "recycled" from buildings that the Moors either found in ruins or destroyed when they took the city. There are pieces from Roman buildings and Visigothic churches. There is even one of the columns that is made from volcanic pumice! The mosque was taken by the Christians in the XIII century and in the early part of the XVI century the Christian clerics in Córdoba petitioned to have a high altar built inside. Going against the advice of Charles I of Spain, they cut a hole in the middle of the mosque and constructed their an altar and chorus. Other Christian elements can also be found throughout the mosque, among them are small chapels around the periphery and the tombs of renowned individuals. One of the best recognized of those who is buried in the mosque is Luis de Góngora the XVII century poet and leading innovator of the "culturalist" movement. After visiting the mosque the students were given time to do some exploring on their own. Many visited other sites including a synagogue and the "Judería" or Jewish quarter of the city.  From Córdoba we traveled a few kilometers outside the city to Medina al Zahara, the site of one the most extensive and fabulous palaces where the caliph of Córdoba resided. The site is now an archeological site where only about 10 percent has been uncovered. It is a beautiful site located on a hillside overlooking the area of Córdoba. The excavation has revealed a complex and technologically advanced structure with internal "plumbing" for water and extensive gardens, military garrisons and palaces. It was a great place where the students were able to relax and explore. The next stop on our trip to the south was Sevilla. Look for information in the next installment.

The Students' First Day of Class

Like every parent who looks forward to their child's "first day" of classes, I thought that you might like to see them waiting for their class to begin. Though things went a little slowly today, I think that they all liked their experience.  I have met their teacher, Jesús, and he is a very nice person.